Привет, народ!
Некогда сейчас мине, я заглядываю, но чиста краем глаза.
Права Учительница (ну вот есть же у людей память!) - у меня войлочная цветет частенько по осени. Сейчас тоже. Две самые старшие откинулись этим летом , засохли и все, может они стольио и должны жить? Лет по 12 им было. Молодая есть , из зернышка самостоятельно выросла, вот она цветет сейчас. Персик тоже, похоже, загнулся. Ну ладно. Хватит второго, тоже который из косточки и прививала его.
Хурма дичок в этом году несколько хурмин образовала. Но они, если в маму, то очень посредственного вкуса будут (пока зеленые). Что ли продолжать прививать ее...может, приживется когда-нить.

Мамик, твой какт у меня цвести собрался Бутончики растут, два штука. Посмотрим, успеет процвести или как. Не ожидала, конечно, от черенка такой прыти.
А этот вот недавно радовал - жаль, один день всего цветы держатся.

Птичек в этом году нет, кроме колибри - не вешала летом кормушки.
Пора начинать, дело к зиме
А этот вот садовый паук (паучиха) выросла огромная и сейчас отложила два шара с яйцами. Сама куда-то пропала. Недавно из паутины ее вытаскивала колибри! чудом успела, не выйди во-время, не обрати внимания на ее чириканье - съела бы хищница птичку. Выхватила, колибр не мог лететь от тяжести паутины. Размотала.

У всех фотки приятно посмотреть (как всегда!)

На предмет компоста - очень даже хороший результат от закапывания растительных отходов с кухни. Перекопала одну клумбу - там земля черная, рыхлая, червяки ползают. Несколько лет назад начиналось все с красного монолитного слоя, годного для кирпичей разве что. Так тчо продолжаю закапывать все подряд. Где есть место ямку выкопать - туда и тогось.

Бейлик, вот твой сеянец. не совсем свежая фотка, чуть побольше уже он. Когда цветков ждать?

в лоусе лук севок есть, берите сейчас, а то когда в феврале надо будет сажать, его еще не будет у них. И на зиму можно сейчас посадить. Хороший севок, белый, желтый и фиолетовый есть.

Оклахома, ты герой! Благодарность от всех любителей hummingbirds!

а то! нам, донкихотам, только подавай фсяких там пауков для борьбы и защищания
Я полезла после этого посмотреть, часто ли пауки колибрей употребляют - таки да...они почти одинакового размера ж...грустно стало...и паук-то ведь хороший, полезный. Я ее назад посадила, поближе к ее рваной паутине - все восстановила она быстро. Они даже крупную саранчу ловят, наблюдала раз - секунда понадобилась, тчоб паучиха на нее спикировала и вторая секунда - обмотать. Полезные они...но вот издержки производства случаются...эх...лес рубят - щепки летят...

Да севком лучше.Но в феврале еще пучками продают ,но севком намного лучше.И чеснок под зиму сейчас садить надо.У нас немного позже.но я считаю и сейчас можно.У меня зеленый всю зиму стоит потом расти веснгой начинает.Укроп тоже уже можно садить.Он сейчас прорастет и тоже всю зиму зеленый будет стоять потом хорошая зелень

Паука прямо рукой брала и обратно садила.?.

A couple of years ago I watched a show on PBS called “Growing a Greener World”. In one episode the host of the show discussed what happened to his raised garden beds. He had bought compost from somewhere in which some of the raw materials contained herbicides...and nothing grew in that compost.

Symptoms
Typical symptoms include cupped leaves and fern-like growth on sensitive plants. The shoot tips become pale, narrow and distorted, with prominent veining on the foliage. Growth generally is stunted, leaving most crops unusable.

Cause
The damage is caused by hormone-type weedkillers, approved for use on grassland to kill broad-leaved weeds. The active ingredient responsible for most of the damage is aminopyralid. Clopyralid, found in certain lawn weedkillers as well as agricultural products can also give similar results.

The herbicide binds strongly to plant material which when consumed by cattle and horses as silage, hay or haylage, can pass through the animals without breaking down. Manure from animals fed on treated grass contains chemical residues sufficient to damage susceptible crops. Bedding materials such as straw are less likely to be affected as aminopyralid does not currently have approval for use on cereal crops from which straw is made.

The weedkiller is bound to the lignin in grass in the manure and released as undigested grass residues decay. Once released it affects many broadleaved plants. However, the weedkiller is broken down by soil bacteria and should all be eliminated by the following year.

Because the weedkiller is bound to lignin, it is difficult to detect or to test for, however gardeners can carry out a simple step-by-step germination test at home for weedkiller residues.

Control
Plots already treated with contaminated manure:

The Health and Safety Executive (HSE) has investigated the risk to human health and concluded that produce from affected land is safe to eat.

The complexity of the supply chain means it is not always easy to trace the source of the contamination. You try by contacting the supplier of your manure in the first instance to discover which weedkillers were used and who the manufacturers are. The HSE website holds information on both amateur and professional chemicals.

If you wish to report what you believe is a case of contaminated manure, you can do this either directly to the main manufacturer, Corteva Agriscience, or via the HSE incident reporting page.

To speed up the rate of breakdown of residues on contaminated land, rotovate or dig over the soil several times, preferably between summer and autumn when the soil is at its warmest. This ensures the manure is fully incorporated into the soil and increases microbial activity. Concentrate on mixing in pockets of manure, such as found at the bottom of manure-lined trenches.

Residue levels in the soil peak at three weeks after digging before breaking down relatively rapidly. This means affected ground is usually safe to replant by the following spring.

Scrape off any loose manure used as mulch around flowers, shrubs or fruit bushes. Return it to the suppliers or spread it on grassland. Failing this, put it in council refuse.

Fruit trees and bushes damaged by contaminated manures are likely to survive and grow well next season. Feed the plants in the spring to encourage good cropping next year.

Flowers such as phlox and delphinium that show symptoms should be cut back at the end of summer and also given a well-balanced feed next spring.

It is not advisable to compost ruined crops. If they cannot be incorporated into the soil, bag them up and put out with household refuse (NOT green waste collection). Seek advice from your council if they won’t accept green waste in domestic refuse.

Stacked manure:

Unfortunately, residues in manure can remain for extended periods, even up to two years. The best advice is to return the unused manure to the supplier for them to spread on grassland. If this is not possible spread it on grassy areas. Well-rotted crumbly manure can be lightly spread on lawns in late winter. As a last resort, consign it to the council refuse.

Long term storage is an option. The manure must be fully rotted down over several years before use.

When buying manure in the future:

Products containing aminopyralid were temporarily withdrawn from supply, sale and use. Following investigation, new approvals have now been given by the HSE. Measures have been taken to ensure the risk of contaminated manure becoming available to gardeners have been reduced. However, gardeners should still be cautious about accepting manure from sources that cannot give assurances that the manure has not come from animals fed on grass or forage treated with persistent hormonal weedkillers, especially aminopyralid products such as Forefront.

Don’t stop using mulch. Organic mulches are essential to improving soil structure and soil moisture. If a reliable source of manure is not available, try using an alternative source of organic matter such as garden compost, leafmould, composted bark or composted green waste from your local council. Although it is possible that composted green waste may sometimes be made from raw materials that contain weedkiller, lawn mowings for example, we have not found this to be a problem. With increasing awareness of the risks associated with weedkiller residues in manure and composted green waste, this problem with hopefully decrease in the future.

is there any benefit by making the garden ready now for spring?"


When turning fill soil into gardening soil using organic means, sooner is always better than later. The good news in using an organic approach is that the beetles, earthworms, bacteria and fungus are all doing the work for you processing the ingredients you are adding. The bad news is that they take time to do it.


If you dig in amendments now, you will have loamy soil by Spring 2022. It will be OK in Spring 2021, but will still have chunks of compost and clay. If you wait until spring you are just six months farther behind. It's not terrible, and you will be able to grow things even then in 2021, but if you are asking what is better - now is better. Over the winter the soil biology will come to life responding to all the new materials.


Also, it's easy to work the soil now when there is the residual warmth of early autumn. It's a lot harder to get going in early March when the ground may still be frozen, or boggy from melting snow. Especially if you want to do early plantings like peas, spinach, kale and lettuce - if the ground has already been worked all you need is a mild day to put in the seeds and you are off and running.